RCU Forums
k
k
0 2025/02/27 13:18:38
The plane has some beautiful lines.
The plane has some beautiful lines.
0 2025/02/28 08:13:41
This is the all up current weight (minus the right strut). While I think this is a good number for this plane, it is going to be hard to get to my anticipated weight goal of 14-16 lbs.
This is the all up current weight (minus the right strut). While I think this is a good number for this plane, it is going to be hard to get to my anticipated weight goal of 14-16 lbs.
0 2025/02/28 08:13:43
Only thig left is to make the jury strut and pin everything together as I did on the opposite side.
Only thig left is to make the jury strut and pin everything together as I did on the opposite side.
0 2025/03/01 05:37:03
With the ends cinched up, I can bolt the strut to the wing.
With the ends cinched up, I can bolt the strut to the wing.
0 2025/03/01 05:37:07
JB Weld mixed and brackets slid into place. Note the gap between the strut and brackets.
JB Weld mixed and brackets slid into place. Note the gap between the strut and brackets.
0 2025/03/01 05:37:10
This will ensure that the brackets are properly aligned while the epoxy sets.
This will ensure that the brackets are properly aligned while the epoxy sets.
0 2025/03/01 05:37:13
I find that using this pair of sheet metal clamp does a good job of evenly closing that gap.
I find that using this pair of sheet metal clamp does a good job of evenly closing that gap.
0 2025/03/01 05:37:16
0 2025/03/01 05:37:20
Completed wing struts shown in the folded position for easier transport to the flying field.
Completed wing struts shown in the folded position for easier transport to the flying field.
0 2025/03/02 08:36:34
Using a heat gun, apply heat to the sanding bar, this will loosen the glue and allow you to remove the sandpaper usually in one piece. Once removed, you will have to clean the glue residue from the surface of the sanding bar. I spray Goof-Off over the top and using a single edge razor blade the glue is scraped off.
Using a heat gun, apply heat to the sanding bar, this will loosen the glue and allow you to remove the sandpaper usually in one piece. Once removed, you will have to clean the glue residue from the surface of the sanding bar. I spray Goof-Off over the top and using a single edge razor blade the glue is scraped off.
0 2025/03/03 07:18:37
These are my sanding bars, it's time to replace the sandpaper on all of them. I used to struggle trying to remove the sandpaper until I found an easier way...
These are my sanding bars, it's time to replace the sandpaper on all of them. I used to struggle trying to remove the sandpaper until I found an easier way...
0 2025/03/03 07:18:40
The wings have been final sanded. I started at 150 grit then 220 and finished with 400. Before changing grit the entire framework was vacuumed and blown off with compressed air. I laid out the material I will need to start the covering process which will begin tomorrow morning!
The wings have been final sanded. I started at 150 grit then 220 and finished with 400. Before changing grit the entire framework was vacuumed and blown off with compressed air. I laid out the material I will need to start the covering process which will begin tomorrow morning!
0 2025/03/03 12:46:09
Once the fabric was ironed on, the fabric was shrunk by raising the temp on the iron. I did it in stages, first at 270, then a final shrinking at 300. It's important not to trim you fabric until the final shrinking takes place or you'll run the risk of the fabric shrinking away from the edges exposing the balsa. (I learned this the hard way)
Once the fabric was ironed on, the fabric was shrunk by raising the temp on the iron. I did it in stages, first at 270, then a final shrinking at 300. It's important not to trim you fabric until the final shrinking takes place or you'll run the risk of the fabric shrinking away from the edges exposing the balsa. (I learned this the hard way)
0 2025/03/06 10:15:01
By the time I had the cloth cut, the Stix-it was dry. You will need an iron and a way to measure the temperature of the iron, the rheostat numbers on your iron are NOT accurate. Here I'm using a non-contact infra-red thermometer to get me the precise temp that I want.
By the time I had the cloth cut, the Stix-it was dry. You will need an iron and a way to measure the temperature of the iron, the rheostat numbers on your iron are NOT accurate. Here I'm using a non-contact infra-red thermometer to get me the precise temp that I want.
0 2025/03/06 10:15:05
Next I will brush on a coat of Nitrate Dope cut with Nitrate thinner at a 50/50 mix. This will dry overnight before I will brush on a second coat.
Next I will brush on a coat of Nitrate Dope cut with Nitrate thinner at a 50/50 mix. This will dry overnight before I will brush on a second coat.
0 2025/03/06 10:15:09
0 2025/03/06 10:15:11
Securing the fabric to the balsa requires a minimum of heat, just enough to soften the glue but not hot enough that will cause the fabric to start to shrink. I found that around 230-240 degrees to be the sweet spot.
Securing the fabric to the balsa requires a minimum of heat, just enough to soften the glue but not hot enough that will cause the fabric to start to shrink. I found that around 230-240 degrees to be the sweet spot.
0 2025/03/06 10:15:14
I cut the fabric with a sharp pair of scissors that I only use on my fiberglass cloth. I made sure I had at left a couple of extra inches long.
I cut the fabric with a sharp pair of scissors that I only use on my fiberglass cloth. I made sure I had at left a couple of extra inches long.
0 2025/03/06 10:15:16
Stix-it was only brushed around the perimeter of all the control surfaces (flaps and ailerons). This dried fairly quickly. One coat was applied.
Stix-it was only brushed around the perimeter of all the control surfaces (flaps and ailerons). This dried fairly quickly. One coat was applied.
0 2025/03/06 10:15:20
Fabricated a motor box. The trick is to get the center of the prop shaft to exit the exact center of the cowl and have about 3/16" gap between the cowl and spinner back plate. 3/16"
Fabricated a motor box. The trick is to get the center of the prop shaft to exit the exact center of the cowl and have about 3/16" gap between the cowl and spinner back plate. 3/16"
0 2025/03/17 12:42:07
After you have punched a few rivets, peek under the aluminum sheet and you will find your buried treasure! Place your rivets in a shallow dish or an old plastic servo container (another item that we tend to not throw out). When I'm garnishing my model with thousands of rivets, I find that a shallow dish is best to use.
After you have punched a few rivets, peek under the aluminum sheet and you will find your buried treasure! Place your rivets in a shallow dish or an old plastic servo container (another item that we tend to not throw out). When I'm garnishing my model with thousands of rivets, I find that a shallow dish is best to use.
0 2025/03/16 13:13:02
I find using a 4 ounce ball peen hammer yields the best results. You will have better control of the hammer without creating to much impact which will deform your rivet. I normally use soda cans as my aluminum sheet source, but here I'm using up some litho plate that I have.
I find using a 4 ounce ball peen hammer yields the best results. You will have better control of the hammer without creating to much impact which will deform your rivet. I normally use soda cans as my aluminum sheet source, but here I'm using up some litho plate that I have.
0 2025/03/16 13:13:05
How you shape the face of the die will be dependent on the type of rivet you want to make. The die on the left is ground to a flat 90 degree angle producing flat rivets, while the die on the right is ground with a slight dome shape which produces the rivet shown on the right. Be careful to not create to much of a domed face on your die or it won't punch out good rivets.
How you shape the face of the die will be dependent on the type of rivet you want to make. The die on the left is ground to a flat 90 degree angle producing flat rivets, while the die on the right is ground with a slight dome shape which produces the rivet shown on the right. Be careful to not create to much of a domed face on your die or it won't punch out good rivets.
0 2025/03/16 13:13:08
This is the instrument panel that I cut from Cherry for the Citabria.
This is the instrument panel that I cut from Cherry for the Citabria.
0 2025/03/16 13:13:11
OK, your rivets are made, now you have to get them out of the dish and onto the surface of your model. Use a sharp #11 blade on your X-acto knife and lightly touch the top of the rivet and it will amazingly pick up the rivet! Once the rivet is in place(on your model) touch the top of the rivet with a hot soldering iron for just a second. This will soften the primer beneath the rivet and adhere it to the surface.
OK, your rivets are made, now you have to get them out of the dish and onto the surface of your model. Use a sharp #11 blade on your X-acto knife and lightly touch the top of the rivet and it will amazingly pick up the rivet! Once the rivet is in place(on your model) touch the top of the rivet with a hot soldering iron for just a second. This will soften the primer beneath the rivet and adhere it to the surface.
0 2025/03/16 13:13:14
The dies are very simple to make, all you need are some short pieces of 2-56 or 4-40 rod. We all have a stash of short pieces that we don't toss away, use those!
The dies are very simple to make, all you need are some short pieces of 2-56 or 4-40 rod. We all have a stash of short pieces that we don't toss away, use those!
0 2025/03/16 13:13:16
I use a rubber backer beneath the aluminum sheet. this gives a nice cushion, giving a more uniform shaped rivet. Even with the rubber backing you can see impressions on the drywall that covers my work table, so don't make rivets on your wife's dining room table...
I use a rubber backer beneath the aluminum sheet. this gives a nice cushion, giving a more uniform shaped rivet. Even with the rubber backing you can see impressions on the drywall that covers my work table, so don't make rivets on your wife's dining room table...
0 2025/03/16 13:13:19
Mixed up epoxy and spread it on the edge of the motor box and clamped in place.
Mixed up epoxy and spread it on the edge of the motor box and clamped in place.
0 2025/03/17 12:41:47
These are the center lines that I had placed on the firewall long ago. the bulls eye should be the prop shaft center line.
These are the center lines that I had placed on the firewall long ago. the bulls eye should be the prop shaft center line.
0 2025/03/17 12:41:52
Tomorrow I'll remount the cowl and I'll see how I did...🫣
Tomorrow I'll remount the cowl and I'll see how I did...🫣
0 2025/03/17 12:41:55
Then I mounted (without glue) the motor box on the firewall and I lined up the vertical and horizontal lines on the motor box with those on the plane's firewall. Once again I verified with the laser.
Then I mounted (without glue) the motor box on the firewall and I lined up the vertical and horizontal lines on the motor box with those on the plane's firewall. Once again I verified with the laser.
0 2025/03/17 12:41:59
Should be OK...
Should be OK...
0 2025/03/17 12:42:03
You can see the vertical and horizontal lines the I extended to all sides of the motor box.
You can see the vertical and horizontal lines the I extended to all sides of the motor box.
0 2025/03/17 12:42:10
I wanted to check to see if the centerline on the firewall is centered in the hole of the cowl, so I set-up my laser to verify.
I wanted to check to see if the centerline on the firewall is centered in the hole of the cowl, so I set-up my laser to verify.
0 2025/03/17 12:44:20
Plenty of space between the cowl and spinner backplate. If I want to reduce this gap even more, I can thin out the shim that I referenced to earlier.
Plenty of space between the cowl and spinner backplate. If I want to reduce this gap even more, I can thin out the shim that I referenced to earlier.
0 2025/03/18 11:29:59
Did you notice the 1/8" plywood shim that I made behind the motor?
Did you notice the 1/8" plywood shim that I made behind the motor?
0 2025/03/18 11:30:02
Motor was mounted on the motor box I made yesterday using 8-32 cap head screws. Note: since this picture was taken, balsa tri-stock was added around the motor box and firewall for further reinforcement.
Motor was mounted on the motor box I made yesterday using 8-32 cap head screws. Note: since this picture was taken, balsa tri-stock was added around the motor box and firewall for further reinforcement.
0 2025/03/18 11:30:06
b
b
0 2025/03/18 11:30:09
Bullseye!
Bullseye!
0 2025/03/18 11:30:12
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